Rouen – Where Joan of Arc Was Burned at the Stake
The plan today is to go sightseeing in Rouen, but first I needed to update the blog. There’s so much happening all the time that it’s difficult to keep up. Finn went on a solo adventure, while I took care of some “office work.”
Rouen is just over an hour’s drive from Lisieux. To avoid missing lunch service again (most places stop serving at 2:00 PM), we decided to stop at a small place called Brionne.
Creperie in Brionne
We found a small “Crêperie” tucked away down an alley. There were at least 30 different types of pancakes to choose from. I decided on “La Champêtre”, a savoury galette with ham, camembert, and stewed apple slices in a creamy sauce.
Not like the Norwegian-style cream sauce—just a tablespoon or two of cream to simmer the apples in. It might sound a bit gross, but it was delicious! Finn went for the usual steak with chips.
We continued towards Rouen, ready to explore the place. One of our guidebooks warned us about sky-high parking prices in Rouen and recommended parking outside the city centre and taking the bus in. I don’t know where the authors of the book are from, but they’ve clearly never been to Oslo. We drove into the first parking garage we found in the centre of Rouen, and when we checked out several hours later, the cost was only €6.00!
Gros Horloge in Rouen
We immediately stumbled upon the Gros Horloge on the first street we entered, aptly named Rue du Gros Horloge. Gros Horloge is a large clock standing over a passageway on the street with the same name in Rouen.
The clock is quite unique, constructed with a mechanism that ensures the same time is displayed on both sides of the passage.
Jeanne d’Arc was executed in Rouen
France’s great heroine, Jeanne d’Arc, was executed here in Rouen’s square. Today, a church stands on the site in her memory. She was famously burned at the stake at just 19 years old for witchcraft and wearing men’s clothing.
This happened in 1431. The verdict was later declared null and void in 1456 (a bit too late for Joan…). In 1920, she was canonised by the Pope and is now regarded as a saint.
Jean d’Arc Church in Rouen
This church in Rouen was built in her memory. Constructed after the Second World War, it features a distinctive design, resembling a ship twisted in some manner. Inside, the church is modern.
The stained glass windows are the most remarkable feature of the church. They date from the 16th century and are a masterpiece that has survived numerous wars and destructions in Rouen.
Palais de Justice in Rouen
We then headed to the Palais de Justice, where we discovered a small patisserie with pretty, but not quite as delicious, cakes as in Vimoutiers.
The Palais de Justice building in Rouen dates from the 16th century and was bombed twice during the Second World War, firstly on the night of 19 April 1944, and then again on 26 August of the same year. You can still see traces of the damage from that time on the back side.
You can clearly see bullet marks on the wall there.
The Old Town in Rouen
Both Finn and I have a great appreciation for old towns and the so-called “centre historique.”
Rouen is renowned for its beautifully preserved half-timbered houses. Wandering around here and simply observing is fascinating in its own right.
Dinner in Pont L’Eveque
We decided to have dinner on our way back from Rouen so it wouldn’t get too late. So, we stopped in Pont L’Eveque, one of the places we had actually planned to visit on the cheese route.
We only found one open restaurant, called Auberge “La Touques,” which was apparently quite a popular spot. The food was, to say the least, quite an experience! We’ve been getting a bit better every year at French culinary vocabulary, but we still have a lot to learn.
Oysters for starters
The menu was only in French, and none of the waiters spoke English. So, I just had to take a chance. I would have given a lot to have a picture of Finn’s face when the starter was brought to the table. All he knew was that he had ordered six of something or other. And that’s what he got… six gray, slimy oysters.
I’ve heard people compare eating oysters to eating snot, just a bit saltier in taste. According to Finn, that was accurate. But he took it like a man and slurped down the goo.
I was a bit luckier and got some kind of meat pâté for an appetizer. My main course was Coq Au Vin, the only thing on the menu I recognized. Tough chicken cooked in red wine. Finn had a steak, which he was much more satisfied with than the starter. The apples? Yes, they were there today as well.
The dessert was caramelized apple wedges with ice cream, cream, and Calvados. That was probably the highlight of the meal.
Finn’s menu also included cheese as an intermediate course, with a piece of Livarot and a piece of Camembert. He ate and enjoyed himself while I thought I was going to faint just from the smell. Regular Camembert is good, but this one was way past its prime, to put it mildly.
The highlight of the day must definitely be the old buildings in Rouen!
